Its a curious fact that when a ship crosses from the Labrador current into the Gulf Stream in winter, her bow will be for a moment in water twenty degrees warmer than her stern. Cradle on the Waves was the graphic name the first inhabitants of Charlottetown, the Mic-Mac Indians, gave the centre of Prince Edward Island. The inlet twists round the little bays and colourful clapboard houses, past the church steeple with its iron weather-vane and the lighthouse to the wharf where the gigantic rusty tankers moor. A tour of the town will go beyond to the beaches of the north coast, to Cavendish where Lucy Montgomery set her novel, Anne of Green Cruising down Canada on one of the largest rivers in the world, the St. Lawrence, is a real eye-opener for nature lovers. 1 Salmon leaps. 2 The Gaspe peninsula, where the river widens to become a gulf emptying into the sea. 3 The lower St. Lawrence region, studded with islands and centuries-old inns serving the regional specialities of fresh fish, rabbit and quail. 4 Moose in the forests. $ Ten species of whale bask in the late-summer to mid-fall waters, explored on film by Jacques Cousteau.