Design A Small Living Room
Surface Dampness is Fatal to Good Results
The wood filler may consist of a solution of gelatine in water, which is unaffected by the solvents used in the cellulose, or of some solid filling medium mixed with linseed oil and turpentine. In any case, it is essential to see that the filler coat is thoroughly dry before the cellulose is applied. Moisture is one of the worst enemies of cellulose, and care must be taken to see that no dampness exists on the article before application.
Cellulose lacquering should not be attempted in a damp atmosphere, or blushing of the surface will result through moisture condensation on the film. Nor should brushing be done in a very hot room, otherwise the film will stiffen too quickly, and ugly brush marks will result.
A PRACTICAL EXAMPLE
As an actual example of using cellulose brushing lacquer the painting of an iron bedstead will be described. This is generally black stove-enamelled, and can be made to look much more pleasing by lacquering with a colour to harmonize with the surrounding decorations in the room. First the bed should be completely dismantled. All the small parts, such as screws, nuts and knobs, should be put aside and dealt with after the main items.
The bed having been taken apart, examine the condition of the old paint. Take a scraper and test the adhesion of the enamel, and, if it chips off” or scrapes off at all easily, it will be necessary to remove the old paint entirely to obtain a satisfactory and lasting cellulose surface. If, on the other hand, the old surface is in good condition, simply flat down with abrasive paper and apply the lacquer.
If it is desired to obtain the best results, procure a quantity of cellulose undercoating, especially if the metal has been bared. This undercoating is distinct from. the ordinary finishing lacquer. It will be advisable to use this undercoating on any brass work, unless it is already covered with a transparent shellac lacquer.
When painting small fittings, such as screws and nuts, use a small brush and do not paint the threaded parts. If any paint gets on the threads it must be removed, or the nuts cannot be put on. The best method of doing this is to use a tap and die, but, failing this, some kind of sharp-pointed instrument. The main body of the job should be allowed at least two hours to harden thoroughly before reassembling.
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